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Calf's Liver & London-Foraged Hawthorn Ketchup

Project type

Recipe

Date

January 2023

Location

London

Every time, without fail, cooking and eating calf’s (veal) liver feels decadent and sophisticated. It’s rich, almost velvety texture, without the iron intensity of some other animals’ liver (which is still to be enjoyed, however), makes it a sumptuous yet ‘light’ thing to treat the tummy too.
A lot of offal in fact is far less heavy and demanding on the digestion, which is always beneficial, and better for our attitudes towards consuming and filling ourselves up to the brim both, in terms of purchasing and actually eating meat products altogether.

Veal is a type of meat tagged with numerous associations - in some cases, taboos - but offal of any kind itself falls into this characterisation. As a brief point, I again turn towards my own approach to meat consumption whereby discriminating between animals and their parts is unfair, unsustainable, uninteresting, and unjust.
Nor does not eating veal necessarily stop the animal being slaughtered in the first place. Sourced and raised in an ethical way, as with any other animal, veal can be enjoyed, should be enjoyed and cooked with love and respect rather than allowed to be killed and done away with.

For this dish, the liver needs to be gently patted dry and at room temperature before it hits the pan. Season generously with salt and cracked black pepper. Fry it in whatever you wish - I choose rapeseed or olive oil because for me, the liver sings of sweet richness itself without the need for butter or any other animal fat. 1-2 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness. Rely on your instinct - touch, smell, listen to the pan and the heat - then take off the heat, cover, and rest in the pan for at least 3-4 minutes. I served it with my hand-foraged home-made hawthorn ketchup (from a tree a stone's throw from my house in SE London). Any sharp berry compote or chutney would be wonderful here to contrast with the earthy, creamy liver. Garnish with parsley or a vibrant green herb, because it deserves an elegant finish and because we undeniably eat with our eyes to an extent, as will any expectant mouths you're looking to feed new bits of offal to...

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