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Pink & Pink: Pig's Kidney, quick-Pickled Peach

Project type

Recipes

Date

July 2023

Location

London

Pink hues and summer sweetness, pork offal can be elevated from its more subtle flavour profiles with the addition of pickles, and particularly during sunny months - fresh fruits.

I had scavenged a bag of (slightly mushed) donut peaches from the reduced section, and a bunch of parsley from the bins. Pork kidneys are so readily available, and reliably so - each week, given we're a whole-carcass butchers, the sides of pork come in with their kidneys attached. So, with a couple of these in tow, and with the happy coincidences of both colour and verbal alliteration - all these 'pinks' collided.

For the quick-pickle, simply diced the peaches and place into a bowl, sprinkle a touch of salt (or you could use soy sauce, but this will mask the colour of the flesh a little). Add some sploshes of red wine vinegar and give everything a stir to begin infusing. You could sprinkle some caster sugar into there as well for added sweetness, but I would advise against this as the kidney has a sweet earthy mellowness to it, and the ripe peaches stand alone in their dewy sweet flavours - keep it light and floral and, ultimately, savoury.

Pink hues and summer sweetness, pork offal can be elevated from its more subtle flavour profiles with the addition of pickles, and particularly during sunny months - fresh fruits.

I had scavenged a bag of (slightly mushed) donut peaches from the reduced section, and a bunch of parsley from the bins. Pork kidneys are so readily available, and reliably so - each week, given we're a whole-carcass butchers, the sides of pork come in with their kidneys attached. So, with a couple of these in tow, and with the happy coincidences of both colour and verbal alliteration - all these 'pinks' collided.

For the quick-pickle, simply diced the peaches and place into a bowl, sprinkle a touch of salt (or you could use soy sauce, but this will mask the colour of the flesh a little). Add some sploshes of red wine vinegar and give everything a stir to begin infusing. You could sprinkle some caster sugar into there as well for added sweetness, but I would advise against this as the kidney has a sweet earthy mellowness to it, and the ripe peaches stand alone in their dewy sweet flavours - keep it light and floral and, ultimately, savoury.

Which brings me to the black pepper - crackle this liberally all over the pork kidney before cooking, and add a bit more during its time in the pan as well. Alternatively, you could pickled the peaches for a little time longer, and in their bowl crush some whole black peppercorns to infuse.

Prep the kidney by slicing in half and removing all the white nodules using kitchens scissors to snip them away from their tendril-like attachments to the main organ. Season liberally, as mentioned above. Heat oil in a pan with a crushed whole garlic clove. Pan-fry the kidney on one side until the colour changes and the underside has a lovey toasty-crust. For your average pig’s kidney, this is about 3 minutes cooking time on a mid-to-high heat. Flip the kidney over and cook for the same amount of time - poke and feel it become firmer and more bouncy, and continuing to change to a lovely nutty brown - the outside ‘rims’ of the kidney should crust and darken further.

Turn off the heat and leave it rest, as you would any other cut of meat. Check on the peaches, finely chop some green herb(s) - I had parsley (bin-dived), but any savoury green like basil or coriander or chives would work too I think.

After the kidney has rest for a few minutes, assembly on the plate, with the peaches piled atop, neatly or in a cascading fashion, or on the side for you to combine as you wish within each bite.


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